To me these are the best shellfish available – they are so versatile, and what a flavour! Poach or fry them, use in a mousseline, either hot or cold – there is no end to their uses. There is also no substitute. Scallops can be bought in so many ways: fresh straight from the sea; cleaned but left in one half of the shell; completely clean (without the shell); or, of course, frozen, which if you have read the introduction to this book you will avoid buying.

Normally sold in the shell by number, or shelled by weight, like any shellfish they should be bought only if they are still alive – that is with their shells closed, or if not closed they should snap shut as soon as they are handled. Obviously, if buying ready-cleaned ones, there is no telling how fresh they are without using your nose.