Modern Córdoba

Córdoba is the Andalusian city where bars, restaurants and craftspeople are most conscious of their rich Moorish heritage Shops specializing in jewelry, ceramics, and leather line the central streets, while quaint taverns, a handful displaying menus in Arabic, are legion. On every visit I discover new finds down a side street or along the revamped riverside On the largest square, the arcaded Plaza de la Corredera that was built in the 17^th century over a Roman arena, I enter a covered market, a tiny affair that feels local, chatty, and authentic Suspended rabbits and pigeons await their culinary fate, while pickled deliciousness takes up half the entrance in the form of dozens of incarnations of olives, capers, garlic, and pickles Jamón from Los Pedroches catches my eye and soon enters my bag, and then it is time for a Vermouth on ice and a tapa at the friendly market bar.