Antequera—dolmens, bulls, and all

South of Córdoba, the highway to Málaga branches off past monumental rocky outcrops and farmland of grains, asparagus, and sunflowers to reach Antequera, a town so ancient that it claims prehistoric dolmens, smack in the geographical heart of Andalucía Behind it rises a rugged escarpment of astonishing karst rock formations, the otherworldly nature reserve of El Torcal, where gigantic boulders look as if they have been tossed down to earth by the gods. From here the views sweep downhill to Málaga and the distant sapphire hues of the Mediterranean.