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By Fiona Dunlop
Published 2023
One of the greatest influences on gastronomy came from the 9th century Baghdadi musician, Ziryab who moved to Córdoba in 822. Appalled by the primitive eating habits left by the Visigoths and Vandals, this polymath, sybarite, and aesthete set about revolutionizing palace banquets. Under his eagle eye, the typical bare wooden boards piled with a chaotic array of platters were transformed Fitted tablecloths of tooled leather, a craft that continues in Córdoba to this day, were laid with glazed ceramic plates from potteries in Málaga and, later, Manises and Granada (Fajalauza). The heavy metal goblets used for wine were replaced with delicate crystal glasses, originally from Persia, though later manufactured locally This latter switch actually stemmed from a Hadith (sacred Islamic text) that banned eating and drinking from gold or silver vessels Allegedly Ziryab even redesigned the wooden soupspoon, the only piece of cutlery in use, producing a lighter, more streamlined version.
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