Cooking: ‘Smash’

For a rustic-looking side with a nice bit of uneven texture: heat a glug of olive oil in a pan over a high heat then add chunks of celeriac. It will hiss and spit – keep it moving so it doesn’t catch or burn. After a few minutes, add 50ml of water, a knob of butter, a tablespoon of white wine vinegar or lemon juice and a good pinch of salt. Give it a final stir, cover with a lid and turn the heat to medium. Keep checking every 5 minutes, adding a dash more water if it looks like catching. Cook until the edges are soft but the middle retains its bite – about 20 minutes. Remove the lid for the last 5 minutes to evaporate off any excess liquid, then season to taste. Use the back of a wooden spoon to smash the celeriac – as much or little as you like. Good additions include: