Cut all except the small chokes in half lengthways – they roast better that way. Toss in a roasting tray with olive oil and salt, adding bay leaves, thyme sprigs and whole unpeeled garlic cloves too, for more complexity of flavour. Roast in an oven heated to 190°C/Gas 5 for 30–40 minutes, until tender and caramelising around the edges. Give them a shake once or twice to ensure even cooking. Serve hot as a side dish, or leave them to cool and mix into a hearty salad. They go well with cooked spelt or pearl barley, a citrussy dressing, chives and parsley.