Amanita Cesarea, Ovolo, Cocco, Fungo Imperiale

Named after the Roman emperor Caesar, who was very fond of it, the Amanita cesarea is probably one of the most sought after mushrooms in Italy. Probably exceeding the very popular porcino (cep) for extreme delicacy of taste and splendid colours, it grows under oak and chestnut trees in very warm, dry areas, especially in the south, but is particularly popular in northern Italy, where it can be bought in specialist shops.

It can grow up to 8.5 cm (3½ inches) in height and has a bright orange cap of up to 20 cm (8 inches) in diameter, with a slightly paler orangey yellow gills and flesh. When mature, a yellow ring or skirt appears on the stem. As it grows, the mushroom resembles a thick white egg out of which the orange ‘yolk’ of the mushroom breaks, hence its Italian name ovolo or cocco, meaning ‘egg’. When collecting it, be sure to pick the right one because, when small and undeveloped, it is very similar to other very poisonous mushrooms from the same family (see Amanita).