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The Cookbook Library: Four Centuries of the Cooks, Writers, and Recipes That Made the Modern Cookbook

By Anne Willan

Published 2012

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From Taillevent, Le viandier (Paris, 1392; recipe from 1892 edition): For a pint of ypocras, you need three tréseaux [about a teaspoon] of the best stick cinnamon, a tréseau of mace, or two if you wish, a half tréseau of clove and grains of paradise, and six ounces of the best sugar; and pound them to powder, and put all in a strainer with the wine, with the crock below, and strain until it has run through, and the more often it is strained the better, but it must not be weakened.

The spiced wine called ypocras or hypocras was used in cooking, or drunk on its own as a favorite remedy for illnesses caused by cold humors. The name harks back to the great Greek physician Hippocrates. This recipe for spiced red wine comes from Taillevent, who instructs that the wine be strained several times to ensure it is properly clarified. If you wish to grind your own spices, allow a quarter ounce or seven grams per tablespoon. Grains of paradise resemble flowery, mild black peppercorns and are available online. Ypocras is heady stuff, so you’ll need to consume just a little!

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