Somewhat hard to find and often confused with oregano, marjoram is worth tracking down. It has a distinctive, clean aroma that asserts itself without dominating. It is best used fresh, though drying doesn’t actually harm it, but just weakens it a little. Chop marjoram with a little olive oil (the oil helps trap its flavor and keep it from turning black) and rub it on fish or meats before grilling or sautéing. It is wonderful with lamb—sprinkle it chopped on the meat itself or add it to a sauce—and if you have more than you need, you can hang it in a cool spot to dry or infuse it in olive oil. It doesn’t do much in vinegar.