Anchovies

Anchovies are used a great deal in Nice—in bagna cauda, poulet en saupiquet, gigot d’agneau, poisson à la chartreuse. It’s best to buy them packed in salt as sold in Greek, Italian, and Spanish markets; they keep well in the refrigerator. Before using the salt-packed variety, wash the fish thoroughly in cold running water. Cut along the back and pull out the bone; then remove the tail. If you can’t find this type of anchovy, use the kind packed in oil and drain well on paper towels.