Brandy butter, also called hard sauce, is the classic accompaniment to steamed puddings, particularly the traditional Christmas pud. It is also one of those items where easy-to-produce equates with delicious and it can be made ages in advance. Cream 115 g / 4 oz unsalted butter with 150 g / 5 oz icing or granulated sugar, then gradually beat in 3 tablespoons of brandy and chill. If butter is excessively rich for your diet, then try beating crème fraîche with a couple of tablespoons of rum and two or three tablespoons of icing sugar. Chill well. You can use rum or whisky in place of the brandy, and there are even versions flavoured with vanilla.