If the syrup boils beyond the hard-crack stage, it becomes caramel, changing colour, turning pale gold and rapidly darkening. The colour is a good guide to flavour: very pale caramels have a light taste, a rich, golden caramel has a warm, deep flavour and a very dark caramel has a nutty taste with a hint of bitterness. The change from pale to dark is rapid; equally, if the caramel is not quickly prevented from cooking it will turn very dark, taste bitter and soon burn. Use the caramel immediately as it sets quickly. Alternatively, to make a pouring caramel, remove the pan from the heat. Protect your hand and forearm with a thick oven glove and hold the pan away from you, then pour in just a little boiling water from a kettle. Tilt the pan away from you as the caramel spits and bubbles violently when the water is added. When it has calmed down, the caramel is thinned slightly, is still full-flavoured and coloured and will not harden.