A travel story

We went to see the leatherback turtles performing their annual egg-laying ritual on the beach at Grande Riviere on the north coast of Trinidad. It is a protected environment (no turtle soup here) and off the beaten track. The event began as we sat on the edge of absolute darkness, listening to the sea relentlessly washing the shoreline. Only candlelight lit the tables, which had earlier been delicately bejeweled with pink petals and freshly picked fern leaves by Tutankamen’, the tall and dedicated table decorator working the hotel.