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By Harold McGee
Published 2004
The muscle tissues of fish and shellfish react to heat much as beef and pork do, becoming opaque, firm, and more flavorful. However, fish and shellfish are distinctive in a few important ways, above all in the delicacy and activity of their proteins. They therefore pose some special challenges to the cook who wants to obtain a tender, succulent texture. Shellfish in turn have some special qualities of their own; they’re described beginning.