By Harold McGee
Grilling and broiling are high-temperature techniques that cook mainly by radiant heat, and are well suited to relatively thin whole fish, fillets, and steaks. For successful results, the thickness of the fish and the distance from the heat must be balanced so that the fish can be cooked through at the center without the outer portions becoming badly overcooked and dry. The fish must either be firm enough to hold together when turned with a spatula—tuna, swordfish, and halibut do well—or be supported in a closed wire rack that can be turned without disturbing the fish. Thin fillets of sole and other flatfish are sometimes put on a preheated buttered plate or aromatic cedar board and broiled without turning.