By Harold McGee
A soft ganache is made with approximately equal weights of cream and chocolate. A firm ganache, more suitable for holding a shape and with a stronger chocolate flavor, is made with two parts chocolate for every one of cream. To make ganache, the cream is scalded and the chocolate melted into it to form a complex combination of an emulsion and a suspension. The continuous phase of this mixture, the portion that permeates it, is a syrup made from the cream’s water and the chocolate’s sugar. Suspended in the syrup are the milk fat globules from the cream, and cocoa butter droplets and solid cocoa particles from the chocolate.