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Food from My Heart: Cuisines of Mexico Remembered and Reimagined

By Zarela Martínez

Published 1992

  • About

One of the important elements in Mexican cuisine is the great range of leaves and husks used as wrappers to cook foods. It is our equivalent of cooking en papillote, except that the wrappers lend a distinctive flavor as the contents cook in the wrapping. Corn husks, fresh or dried, are the best-known type of wrapper. They are usually used to make masa-filled tamales, but can be used to wrap different vegetables and fish (for example, Morralitos de Calabacitas, or Tamal de Pescado). They are great for grilling or roasting, as well as baking and simmering. Dried husks, the most widely used, are available in craft stores (make sure they are untreated), and in Latin American groceries and some supermarkets. They are sold in 4-ounce, 8-ounce, and sometimes 1-pound packages. The green husks from fresh ears of corn are also used in different kinds of tamales—for example, to steam a filling of young corn kernels, ground and combined with butter and cheese (tamal de elote). Fresh corn leaves, hojas de milpa, are another important tamal wrapping, particularly in the triangular corundas of Michoacán. To prepare dried corn husks for use, soak them in hot or warm water until softened, at least 30 minutes to an hour. I always place masa or other fillings on the rough, ridged side of the husk because I like the way it cooks as it sticks to the ridges. However, it is easier to fold them and remove the tamal when spread on the smooth side.

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