Combat Food: Doughboys Get Their Fill

The military did all right by the American doughboy of World War I. The most immediately noticeable food-related improvement was in the quality and variety of the ration itself. In addition to improved versions of standard ration items like beef and beans, the overseas ration of the American Expeditionary Forces included a wider assortment of canned goods, among them, soups, condensed milk, butter, cheese, sweet potatoes, spices, candy, and cigarettes. By the end of the war, the American army was being called the best-fed on earth. A few of the many improvements included the ability to better handle and process perishable food in the field, successful and widespread use of dehydrated vegetables (80 million pounds were sent overseas), and the creation in France of an official garden service to supply the men with fresh provisions. In addition, there was increasing use of scientific experts, nutritional survey teams, and inspectors to improve and ensure the quality of the food. There was also growing interest in new processes. The army, for example, took one little-known product, soluble coffee, and helped foster the growth of an instant-coffee industry that continued to serve civilians after the war.