California: Pit Ovens

Appears in
Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America

By Andrew F. Smith

Published 2004

  • About

The simplest pit ovens were modest holes into which food and heated stones were placed. More elaborate permanent pit ovens were lined with stone, sometimes several layers thick, and were capacious enough to accommodate a substantial bed of coals at the bottom, the food (often wrapped or layered in special leaves chosen for their toughness, fragrance, and moisture content), and a topping of more coals. Sometimes the entire pit was sealed with additional layers of leaves and soil to keep in the steam. In pits without stone linings, layers of leaves were used around the walls. The choice of leaves depended on availability—for example, in coastal areas seaweed was favored, and inland the Apache chose sweet and sturdy grasses, among them spike muhly (Muhlenbergia wrightii). Leaf-wrapped foods were protected against dirt, ash, and water.