The sustaining combination of rice and peas—black-eyed peas, cowpeas, or whatever legume is available—is an African dish that took various forms in the Americas, such as Brazilian feijoada and Cuban Moros y Cristianos. The only specifically American versions of this dish are the Hoppin’ John of South Carolina and the red beans and rice of New Orleans. Hoppin’ John may have as its leguminous component cowpeas, or black-eyed peas (Vigna unguiculata), Congo peas, or pigeon peas (Cajanus cajan), but green or yellow field peas (Pisum sativum) are not used. A recipe for Hoppin’ John appears in The Carolina Housewife (1847) by Sarah Rutledge, and it is a signature dish of South Carolina cookery.
