“Head to Toe”

These two separate preparations are both elaborate and each is enormously satisfying in its own way. The first uses the succulent fatty meat in a pig’s head, wrapped around cooked pig’s tongue, pig’s ear, and sweetbreads, rolled tightly into a cylinder, and oven-poached all day. After it’s cooled, it’s sliced into medallions, sautéed, and served with a gribiche sauce. The pig’s foot, or trotter, a classic French country preparation, is also stuffed and cooked over an extended period.