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By Damien Pignolet

Published 2005

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In my childhood, pork was generally reserved for special occasions, when my mother roasted a leg of pork with crunchy crackling; other times she would cook a deliciously flavoured pickled pork shoulder and serve it with parsley sauce. I remember grilled pork chops being moist, as the animals carried considerably more fat than they do today [more fat generally means more flavour].

Pork is a staple in French cuisine and charcutiers, or pork butchers, belong to a specialised guild. Fresh and pickled pork play a particularly important role in the regions of Alsace, where choucroute [sauerkraut] is a speciality, and in Normandy, where they create a delicious marriage of pork, cider and cream. A pickled loin of pork has a moister texture than fresh pork when roasted, as well as a unique flavour and beautiful colour. Confit or preserved pork is an essential ingredient in cassoulet and cured pork belly is used extensively to add moisture and flavour when braising beef, as well as being fried to make lardons for use in casseroles and salads.

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