Southern Cheeses

Much of Southern cookery couldn’t exist without cheddar cheese and, to some extent, Parmesan. Bland, processed American cheese is virtually worthless in good cooking, and I buy nothing but sharp or extra-sharp natural cheddar that’s been aged from 9 to 12 months—preferably New York State, Vermont, or Canadian. Some freshly grated domestic Parmesan cheese is acceptable for certain cocktail spreads, casserole toppings, croquettes, and the like, but generally there simply is no substitute for genuine Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano (which, since it dries out quickly, should be bought in relatively small quantities, kept tightly wrapped in plastic, and stored in the refrigerator).