Red-Eye Gravy

Cured country ham with red-eye gravy is one of the South’s great breakfast treats, especially when accompanied by soft-fried eggs, grits, fresh fruit, and hot biscuits to sop up part of the gravy. To fry ham slices, render a little fat cut off the edges in a cast-iron skillet over moderate heat, fry the ham in the fat 3 to 5 minutes on each side (depending on the width), and transfer to a hot platter or individual serving plates. To make the gravy, add about 3 tablespoons of water per slice of ham to the skillet, reduce till the gravy begins to thicken, scraping up bits and pieces of debris from the bottom of the pan with a spoon, and pour equal amounts of gravy over the ham slices. For a richer, stronger gravy, substitute brewed coffee for the water. (If you object to salty country ham—few Southerners do—you can soak the slices in water about an hour. But be warned: part of the delectable flavor will be lost.)