There are still a fair few serious oystermen on the island of West Mersea, to the south of Colchester. Richard Haward, for example, continues his family’s tradition, which dates back to 1792, of harvesting native oysters and taking them up to London to sell.
Richard’s wife Heather runs The Company Shed, one of my favourite eateries in West Mersea, which serves simply prepared great local seafood. You can also sample Richard’s oysters at his oyster bar on Fridays and Saturdays in London’s Borough Market. Haward specialises in natives, but 70 per cent of what he sells is the all-year-round rock oyster (illustrated).