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How to Cook Birds Without an Oven

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By Patience Gray

Published 1986

  • About
You braise them. This originally meant cooking in the braise, that is in glowing embers; a neolithic and gypsy practice embracing the roasting of small birds, hedgehogs, rabbit, squirrels, enclosed in a coating of damp clay, slapped directly on the feathers, prickles, fur, which later conveniently ‘came away’ with the clay, hardened in the fire, when fractured on removal.

A perhaps over-refined version of this method is practised in country trattorie round Florence; a chicken, plucked and wrapped with herbs in oiled paper is coated with clay, then cooked in a charcoal braise and dramatically shattered to delight the diner.

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