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Softening and Tenderizing Baked Goods
By Paula Figoni
Published 2003
Starch added to baked goods interferes with the formation of gluten and egg structure. This is especially true when there is not enough water for starch to gelatinize, as is the case for cookies and pie dough. It is only through gelatinization that starch forms structure; otherwise it consists of hard, gritty particles that interfere with protein webs that gluten or eggs form.
Table 12.5 A comparison of the Properties and Uses of Starches and Gums
| Starch | Properties | Ideal Uses |
| Cornstarch | Cloudy when cooled; good sheen Heavy body; gels if concentration is high Not stable to excessive heat, acid, freezing, mixing Gel tightens and weeps over time Masks many flavors High gelatinization temperature | Puddings, cream pies |
| Arrowroot | Moderate to high clarity; high sheen Soft gel; can be stringy Relatively stable against acid, heat, mixing, freezing Relatively low gelatinization temperature Relatively clean flavor | Fruit pies and sauces |
| Tapioca | Moderate to high clarity; high sheen Soft gel; can be stringy Relatively stable against acid, heat, mixing, freezing Relatively low gelatinization temperature Relatively clean flavor Available as pearls, granules, powder | Fruit pies and sauces Tapioca pudding |
| Waxy maize | Moderate to high clarity Thickens, does not gel Relatively stable against acid, heat, mixing, freezing Relatively clean flavor | Base for many modified starches; not typically available unmodified |
| Modified food starch | Highly stable against acid, heat, mixing, freezing Variable gelatinization temperature Other properties vary with brand | Frozen foods Steam table applications High-acid products |
| Instant starch | No heat required Properties vary with brand | Last-minute plating Heat-sensitive products |
| Flour | Cloudy; yellow-tinged color Heavy body Imparts a flavor; masks or mellows flavors | Pastry cream Home-style pie fillings |
| Gelatin | High clarity, high sheen Forms firm, bouncy gel At typical usage levels, melts in the mouth and at room temperature Clean flavor Available as sheets, powder | Gelatin desserts Stabilized whipped cream Confections (gummy bears) |
| Agar | Moderate to high clarity Forms very firm gel, bouncy gel Stable (does not melt) at room temperature or in mouth Usage level varies with purity Available as sheets, strands, and powder | As a gelatin substitute for:
|
| Pectin | High clarity, high sheen Thickens or gels Clean flavor Generally requires high acid and high sugar concentrations | Fruit jams, jellies, fillings Glazes High-quality jelly confections |
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