Colorings

The stigma of the autumn-flowering saffron crocus is the most expensive of all spices. Over 250,000 blossoms are required to produce a mere pound of the dried threads that yield the characteristic yellow color. Fortunately, saffron is so strong it is added only by the pinch; when used in quantity its flowery, slightly bitter flavor is overpowering. It is best appreciated on its own and should not be combined with strong herbs or spices, although it marries well with fennel in fish soups and stews. The threads can withstand long cooking. Where an even color is important, add the saffron to the dish early. When adding it to any dish with plenty of liquid, crumble the thread lightly with your fingers and add it directly to the pot. For drier dishes, the thread or powder should first be steeped in a little hot water or other liquid. Saffron is obligatory in paella, Risotto alla milanese and the Provençal fish soup, bouillabaisse.