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By Anne Willan

Published 1989

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Brains have a more creamy texture and fragile structure than sweetbreads. Calf’s brains are the best, then lamb’s, pig’s, and beef. The richness of brains can be overwhelming, so they are usually simply poached in court bouillon laced with vinegar. They can also be braised or simmered in red wine, which is then made into a sauce meurette.

Brains are valued for their texture more than their taste, and are thus suited to recipes such as poached brains in brown butter with capers, or to poaching, coating and deep-frying. Cooked brains can be used to enrich stuffings, puréed to thicken sauces, or braised with vegetables for flavor.

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