Roasting Over a Burner

Reliable home ovens did not appear in most Italian kitchens until after World War II. Dishes that required a proper oven, such as lasagne or cakes, were taken to the local baker. In fact, these dishes are not intended to be consumed piping hot. I remember waiting with my bicycle at the baker’s; as soon as the lasagne came out of the oven, I quickly pedaled them home. By the time we were all at our places at the table and the lasagne had been portioned out, all the fierce baking heat had subsided, clearing the way for a glorious revelation of flavor and fragrance.