Olive Oil: Age

New oil, olio nuovo, when it is less than a month old, has a distractingly scratchy, throat-searing taste that I don’t prize. I like it when it is still lively, but after the initially rough edge has worn off. For me, oil is probably at its best between its third and sixth month. As it ages further it becomes mellower, and a sealed bottle kept in a dark, cool place will stay in good condition for a year or two. Exceptions are those oils from Liguria and from southern Italy that may be produced from ripe or overripe olives and that begin to turn rancid during their second year.