Chiles

Small, slender fresh chiles, deep red and about 1½ inches long, were once imported exclusively from Thailand. Most still are, but others, grown elsewhere, including domestically, are now sold in Chinatown markets. Chiles from Thailand remain my preference, however, because they deliver a unique quality to dishes. Although they are quite hot, they impart a pleasant heat that lingers in the mouth. They are also dependable in terms of the numbers used to achieve the desired hotness. Store them in a container lightly covered with plastic wrap in the refrigerator for up to 10 days. Do not seal the container, or the chiles will deteriorate. For recipes that call for dried chiles, such as my Hot Pepper Oil, you can dry the fresh chiles, which I prefer, or you can purchase them already dried, but make sure they are dried Thai chiles. Whole dried chiles will keep in a tightly closed container in a cool, dark place for at least 6 months.