This gnarled, knobby root—actually a rhizome—is often referred to as gingerroot. When selecting ginger, look for large, thick pieces with smooth outer skins because a wrinkled and rough skin indicates age. One of the most important foods in Chinese cooking, ginger imparts an intense, distinctive flavor and should be used sparingly. Its strength depends on how it is prepared, which is why I am careful to specify whether it should be peeled or unpeeled, lightly smashed or not, sliced, julienned, minced, or shredded. It will keep in a heavy, brown paper bag in the refrigerator for 4 to 5 weeks. Some Chinese markets stock yellowish ginger, imported from China. In addition to its distinctive color, its taste is hotter than the more familiar beige ginger. Young ginger, which is slightly pink and has thin, smooth skin and crisp flesh, is also available. It is often called “spring ginger, ” a misnomer because it is available throughout the year. It is actually regular ginger that is harvested when young to ensure its characteristic crispness and mild flavor.