Gluten

The Chinese call this elastic protein “tendon flour” because of its tensile nature. It is a component of wheat flour and is made by combining wheat flour and water and kneading it into a dough. The dough is then washed thoroughly to remove its starch, thus concentrating the gluten. Sometimes used as a substitute for meat in vegetarian recipes, gluten has no taste of its own, but readily absorbs the flavors of the foods with which it is combined. To give it texture and make it more digestible, gluten is usually fried first until hard and then braised with other foods that give it taste and a chewy, spongelike consistency. This rough-surfaced gluten, called mian jin, is the one I prefer. You will also find gluten with a moist, doughy texture, which is known as kaofu. The latter expands when thawed. Both types are sold in plastic packages and are usually found in the refrigerated sections of markets and sometimes in the freezer section. Domestically made gluten and imported gluten from China, mainly Hangzhou and Taiwan, are available. The packages are often labeled “dried gluten cake” or “wheat dough” and hold squares, cubes, or irregular shapes. Once a package is opened, the unused portion should be stored in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator, where it will keep for up to 2 weeks.