Grape Molasses

This is a classic ingredient of Greek, Turkish, and southern Italian pantries, but chefs from all over the world now experiment with this precious, old-fashioned, and very healthy sweetener. The molasses is produced by reducing grape must for hours, until it becomes dark and syrupy. The lengthy process makes it expensive and often hard to find, as the small quantities produced in the fall disappear fast. Grape molasses was one of the ancient sweeteners, together with honey, before the production of sugar. It is not just sweet; it has a complex flavor with slightly bitter undertones. In the old days, fruits such as apples, pears, and quince were cooked in grape molasses to make preserves. Teaspoons of grape molasses enhance salad dressings; I use it in the dough of traditional barley paximadia.