Matsutake

Little known and used in Europe, matsutake is an important and highly sought-after mushroom in Japan, reaching white truffle kind of prices for homegrown. Long and plump, matsutake is also soft and fluffy, with almost a film of cotton-like matter covering it, rather like pied bleu. For the best money, the milky white mushroom is picked when the cap has not yet opened and is still curled under the stem. It appears as if there is no divide between the long, thick stem and the pretty, curled-under cap and this illusion continues when sliced. Even before knowing its background, you can tell there’s something wonderfully odd about it, as it’s very pleasing in texture and taste – it’s on the spicy side.