Chiles, Dried Red

Chiles (Capsicum annuum v. annuum) came to India with the Portuguese, though I have heard people arguing about which way the exchange really went. A note on orthography here: in Indian and British English, it’s a chilly; more than one and you have chillies. In Bombay, most Parsi households use two kinds of dried red chiles—the Kashmiri, for its brilliant color when ground; and the Goa, for its heat. Outside India, we have to make do with what is exported and imported. Most commonly available at Indian and other Asian markets is the cayenne variety. Buy it in small amounts and store it out of the light. If it gets so old that the color fades, start over with a new batch. Parsis use whole dried red chiles to flavor dishes without making them hot. They are not intended to be eaten except by someone who takes delight in doing so. If you’re particularly sensitive to capsaicin, shake the seeds out; otherwise, leave them in. See also Chilly Powder, Indian, below.