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By Niloufer Ichaporia King

Published 2007

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Brinjal is the common Indian English word for the familiar purple vegetable also known as eggplant or aubergine, the latter word derived from Arabic, not French. From its ancient origins in India, eggplant (Solanum melongena) spread in both directions, brought to the New World by the Spanish, who got it from the Arabs, who got it from the Persians. Eggplant comes in a bewildering array of shapes, sizes, and colors. Parsi cooks select the size and shape with a particular dish in mind. Large, fat, and full of seeds; long and slender; small and egg-shaped—each has its place. For the Smoky Eggplant Salad, seeds are desirable; for eggplant steamed whole, the slender Chinese or Japanese varieties are best; for stuffing or as part of a stew or a curry, use the little eggy ones.

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