Wild Fennel

The succulent shoots of young fennel with their soft plume of fronds grow wild over much of California, but nowhere else in America, and they never appear in the markets. Do as Sicilians do when they visit—pick the plant from the hillsides and use the bulbs and seeds in a vast range of dishes. If you can’t find wild fennel, use the delicate top leaves from cultivated fennel mixed with a small handful of fennel seeds.