Apples

It is worth learning from Normandy the use of tart, aromatic, dessert apples for cooking. The favourite kinds were Reinette varieties and Calville white and red. More recently chefs have discovered that Golden Delicious holds its shape in the oven: an unfortunate discovery, as the rich, sweet-smelling flavour of the Normandy apple tart is becoming a thing of the past. In this country, use Cox’s Orange Pippins that have not been picked too early (their season is November to December), Ribston Pippin, which was grown from a Normandy seedling at the beginning of the eighteenth century, Charles Ross or James Grieve. In December and January keep an eye open for Belle de Boskoop, an acid dessert apple, originally from Holland, excellent for sauce or a tart. Blenheim Orange is another good apple for cooking. Experiment with what is available.