This indispensable element of Moroccan and Tunisian cooking is easy to make at home, although Western supermarkets now stock them. Use thin-skinned, untreated lemons, which should be thoroughly washed. With a sharp knife, incise two large crosses into the end of each lemon so that it is nearly cut into quarters but held together at the base. Sprinkle a good layer of salt into a large, sterilized preserving jar, pack the lemons tightly inside, adding more salt and Alling with water (and optional coriander seeds, peppercorns and a bay leaf). Make sure the lemons are completely covered. Pour a layer of oil on top of the jar to help prevent mould forming. They will be ready to use in two weeks and last for up to a year. You can keep adding lemons to the pickle.