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By Fred Plotkin
Published 1989
Sweet fragrant onions give character and substance to a whole range of dishes. They are vital as starting ingredients for meat sauces and in some fillings for stuffed pastas such as agnolotti and tortellini. In the case of one dish from Calabria, onions are the sauce. When sautéeing onions in butter, melt the butter gently until it is foamy but has not turned color. Add the onions and cook until they reach a golden translucence. To sauté them in oil, heat the oil until it is hot but not very hot or smoky. Add the onions and cook them slowly enough so that they do not burn or fry. For most uses, small- to medium-sized yellow onions are preferable.
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