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By Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers

Published 1995

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Salted anchovies are one of the principal ingredients at the River Cafe. Pesce Azzurro is the commercial name by which the Italian government groups small fish like anchovies and sardines. Anchovies are graded by size, then salted whole in large barrels or tins of 5-10 kg (11-22 lb) in weight. The best fish are the largest, and they should be red in colour. When a new tin is opened, the salt pack should be dry. The shopkeeper will pick the required amount of anchovies carefully from the tin or barrel with wooden tongs, to prevent moisture spoiling the remainder. They are bought in Italy by the gram.

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