Lentilles du Puy

The best lentils – sold as lentilles du Puy – are small and coloured from green-brown to blue. They are now grown in Italy as well as in France, where they are known as Castelluccio lentils. They should be available in health-food shops, delicatessens and some good supermarkets. We use them simply dressed with olive oil as an accompaniment to grilled sea bass or mullet: occasionally we add chopped fresh herbs. Boiled lentils form part of the famous Bollito Misto served at New Year, and each part of the dish has a symbolic reference to the year to come: the lentils bring wealth, the meats good health, and the mostarda di Cremona lively spirits.