Salt Throughout the Cooking Process

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By Michael Ruhlman

Published 2011

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First and foremost is salt’s use in general cooking. It heightens flavors across the board, morning, noon, and night, from savory to sweet. It should be the first thing you think about once you’re organized and begin cooking. I begin salting immediately. When the first onions go into the pan to sweat, I follow them with a little salt, which both seasons them and helps begin to draw out moisture and get them cooking. When the main ingredient goes into the pan, tomatoes for a sauce, say, so does a little more salt. Not too much, but in an hour, when I taste that sauce, it’s going to have a little more depth and flavor than had I not seasoned it. Sure, I could season all at once, right at the end, but the flavor will be a little different. The sauce will lack depth and balance, and may even taste salty.