Chiles

Sometimes erroneously called “peppers” (chiles have no relation to peppercorns), chiles come in many shapes, sizes, colors, and, most important, flavors. They come fresh, dried, smoked, ground, and occasionally canned. Because of their diversity, chiles, especially dried chiles, can be used in sauces to add not only heat but an array of subtle flavors, variously described as smoky, leathery, fruity, and earthy. To explore the flavor of dried chiles, lightly toast them and reconstitute them in water (discard the water when done) and chop them rather fine. Infuse each one, separately, in a small amount of cream. This will reveal the subtle difference between chiles and offers an exciting angle for sauce making.