More Elaborate Vinaigrettes

Vinaigrettes often provide the necessary accent for leftovers and have long been popular with cold foods such as brains, leftover poached meats, and cold roast chicken. Because no cooking is involved, the preparation of an impromptu sauce based on oil and vinegar lends itself to improvisation. Vinaigrettes for cold meats and fish are usually best when more aggressively flavored than a vinaigrette for a green salad. Mustard is one of the best and most obvious flavorings, but other briny ingredients, such as cornichons (sour gherkins), capers, anchovies, and grilled peppers, are excellent when finely chopped and incorporated into the sauce. Herbs, finely chopped or crushed at the last minute into a paste with a mortar and pestle, provide exciting flavor and color.