I have rather a large assortment of salt in my kitchen – Danish, British and New Zealand sea salt, smoked salt from numerous countries, pink Murray River salt from Australia and sulphurous black salt from India – and I like to play with the variety in my cooking. For boiling vegetables, I use inexpensive fine salt. But for all recipes in the book, unless specified otherwise, I have used flaky sea salt. It’s worth noting that miso paste, soy sauce and fish sauce are also good salty seasoning agents; however, they will darken a salad dressing (and therefore the salad itself) as they tend to be brown. They will also add their own individual flavour, which can be good – or not – depending on the dish.