Mortar and Pestle

Next to my knives, the mortar and pestle is my most essential kitchen tool, one I use almost every day. My favorite one is old and large, made of olive wood, a gift from a friend in Provence. It is a treasured companion in the kitchen. Given the easy availability of food processors and blenders, a mortar and pestle might seem like a hopelessly old-fashioned tool, clung to for sentimental reasons. But in many cases I prefer it to the food processor for the way the pounding releases the perfume of garlic, peppercorns, herbs, and spices. Garlic pounded to a paste has a sweeter taste to me than processed garlic. Somehow the effect of smashing is different from the metallic slicing and chopping of the food processor, although there are also occasions when I happily prefer the machine. I like standing over a mortar, watching what’s happening as I work and inhaling the aromas. Often I find it easier to reach for and clean up, too. And if I’m making a sauce, such as garlic mayonnaise or aïoli, I just serve it directly from the mortar instead of transferring it to another dish.