Tomatoes

Tomatoes are rather too delicate and unwieldy to grill for serving, but they are delicious to cook with and require little fussing. Using grilled tomatoes in place of fresh can completely transform a soup or sauce, giving it a sweet, smoky edge that is unexpected and delicious.

Wash firm, ripe tomatoes and put them, whole, on the grill over a low fire. Turn them occasionally until they are soft and lightly charred all over the surface. Purée them in a food processor or blender, with the skins, and use the purée in place of fresh tomatoes.